Aimpoint is sold.  All things for sale are OBO!

I also have a few grenades on sale.  They have each only been used a few times, and are in perfect condition.

Madbull PB4 (great for using nerf rounds). $60
Madbull M433s, $40 each, $75 together.

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I have a ton of spare G36 parts that I am looking to offload.  If anyone wants to buy these in a big batch, I will most definitely make it worth your while, as I am trying to unload this stuff especially.  

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From top left to bottom right:
-CA G36 1.5x Optics Bridge (carry handle) w/ a rail mount hole drilled by myself on top of the optics. $30.00
- JG G36c body w/ rails, C stock w/o barrel assemby, roughly painted.  $10
- Classic Army C36k outer barrel w/ metal G36k Flash hider. $20
- Classic Army G36 1.5x Optics Bridge/Carry Handle. $40
- TM SOCOM Suppressor 14mm CCW, no foam: $25
- CA C Body (with barrel assembly). $20
- JG G36 Barrel Assembly (plastic). $5
- CA G36c handguard. $10
- CA G36 lower reciever with gearbox/motor, working. $80
- TM G36c Standard Barrel. $10
- BE G36c Standard barrel w/ hop unit. $10
- JG G36k Standard barrel. $10

Again, all these parts will be given big discounts if bought all together or in large groups.

KWA USPc with a Shooters Design slide that I am looking to sell.  Unfortunately, it has one problem.  When I originally got the SD slide, I could never get it to align correctly on the KWA's gas feeding.  After consulting an airsmith, he swaped the internals of the KWA slide and the SD slide, and replaced the barrel with the plastic KSC one.  In this mode, it manages to cycle, but not correctly.  If the original parts are swapped back into the KWA metal slide, it will operate just fine.  The SD slide will take some tinkering to make it an operational piece.  In this sale I am including the KWA USPc itself with the SD slide as it currently is, along with the original KWA slide (with hand-done pseudo-trades) and all the parts from both slide assemblies.  I am looking for $120.

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Quote from: "Altered_Soul"

According to the Bible he is also supposed to be Eastern European and white. He is also supposed to show up AFTER the Rapture.

Can you get me the scriptural references to this claim?

The bible?

Revelations?

Do you have a point? Because mine has nothing to do with who/why/when the "anti-Christ" could exist, but rather to stop really caring about who it could be, because its foolish to apply it to everything you don't like.  I hate rocky road Ice Cream, but I don't call it the Anti-Christ.  

And even then, its hilarious to think we would recognize him at all.  Also from Revelations.

According to the Bible he is also supposed to be Eastern European and white.  He is also supposed to show up AFTER the Rapture.

The Anti-Christ babble is lunacy.  I don't care if you love him or hate him, he was voted in.  Make your voice stronger next time you have the chance, especially if you hate what he has done.  Its how America works, love it or hate it.

I find it funny that you call the current president the Anti-Christ, then make a reference to Hitler.  Hitler, biblically, even though he fit the racial profile, would never be the Anti-Christ, you can't be Hitler-ish AND be the Anti-Christ-ish.

Additionally, only one "doomsday" clock ends on Dec. 21st, 2012, all other prognoses evolved off of that, much like the end of the world in 2000 (which if you want a counter point for the babble, was when Bush was elected).  And even the originator, is based upon a mathematical consequence, like counting to ten and starting over.  

Again, I don't care if you think he will fix America, keep the status quo (most likely), or break it, the psycho babble is beyond stupid.  Keep the conversation logical, rational.  History can be used as a tool, which this thread started with (sorry haven't watched the video yet, but I get the gist), but spouting ridiculous un-definable babble is useless.

Any other things I should invest in for my CA G36c?

Look into finding a SRC KV stock.  Not as solid as the G&P but it is cheaper.  Get everything rewired in Dean's to the back, get a large 9.6v battery, and you never have to worry about batteries again.  It perfectly balances the rifle as well.

At stealth, I always pick function over frivolous things like optics first, hence my steadfast belief that internals should be solidified first, followed by the KV stock.  Everything after that is fluff.  An optic (and especially replica optics), are just as accurate in airsoft as iron sights unless you have a well tuned AEG.  Even then is superfluous.

Sorry to sound like a prick, my allergies are killing me this week.

Do any of you guys recomend the G&P KV stock for the gun? I heard it had weird plugs and it could fit a large type battery.

Best external piece you can get for the G36, period.  If you get one that comes with the custom battery, it is fitted with Deans connector (the battery is).  I recommend keeping it that way, and when you have your G36 rewired, have the connector switched to a Dean's.  And yes, it does fit standard large batteries.  Very comfortably.

Alright, not to sound all important and stuff, but I hope you didn't break off those tabs.

I have been using G36s for 5 years now, and have taken quite some time to figure out how to get the unwieldy mags nice and secure without worrying about snagging.

Well, there are multiple options.  The general rule of thumb is, a double M16 style magpouch holds one G36 magazine, while a triple M16 style mag pouch holds two LINKED G36 mags. This doesn't always work, as not all pouches are made equal.  TT makes great G36-specific pouches, which I use on rigs other than my authentic German gear.  If you don't want Flecktarn (or the desire to spend the money on MOLLE capable IdZ pouches or the obsolete Link Webbing), there are the options above.  But I recommend you get used to linking your mags.  Its a lot more efficient than you might otherwise think, especially in a proper G36 mag pouch like the TT, designed not to get snagged.  The TT can also hold 2 G36 mags unlinked, but they get caught on each out as you could assume.  Still, don't chop those nubs and holds off.

A simple, elegant solution is to get some cloth tape, and tape over the nubs.  This will let them come out without snagging on the other magazine.  Not as smoothly as two AR magazines of course, but you can always remove the tape to regain linkability.  This also works great for single mag pouches, as non-G36 specific stuff usually can snag on that thing due to the internal material.  Electrical tape can work too, but has a lot more friction than the cloth tapes.  I have tried black hockey cloth tape (NOT HOCKEY STICK TAPE, THAT'S HIGH FRICTION) and it worked great.  I still prefer linked though, because its a lot easier having "one" mag pulled worth two reloads.  

Also, for an alternative, M14 Open Top mag pouches will fit G36 magazines in them well.  Taping over the top lugs are recommended for this setup as well.  Some m14 ones are too tight though, but most will fit a G36 mag.  

http://www.tacticaltailor.com/g36doublemagpouch.aspx

My MAV setup:

Four TT G36 pouches, they can be height adjusted and have depth cinched down with the retainer bungee to fit a single nicely, or use practically any other magazine, thus diversifying your loadout for G36 mags, M16 mags, G3/M14, AK, anything really.  Then on the right (left side wearing) I have a Condor double M14 open top shingle (with a 40mm pouch on top), for quick access to single magazines.

EDIT: The M16 conversion magwells will get the job done, but I am a G36 purist and will never vouch for them .

Though I think its ridiculous he still has to pay that much, holy crap I don't know what I would think if the border-jumper's lawyers won it all.  I have a funny feeling that 78k is going straight into the scumbags pockets, and when the Mexicans ask, wheres my emotional money, their response is "here's your deportation order".  The lawyers should be deported first.  Then they can get the 78k beat out of them by Coyotes and runners.