Author Topic: Downgrade M4  (Read 2126 times)

Offline stealthmaster14

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Re: Downgrade M4
« Reply #15 on: June 11, 2009, 12:12:32 AM »
Quote from: "Sykinder"
Well I took it to gearbox and got it back on Saturday and now it's shooting just how I like but now the battery wires getting really hot after like 5 shots then after the 5 shots it doesn't shoot and when the wires cool down it starts to go again then stops working. Any ideas what's wrong with it? I'm taking it to gearbox tomorrow

Sounds like there is a lot of resistance in the wiring.  I'm not an electrical expert, but your wiring might be shorting out.  What kind of connectors do you have on your gun?  I highly suggest deans if you don't have them already.  This won't fix the issue, but could help a bit.  Definitely sounds like something is up with your wiring though.  (I'm guessing a short)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Guest »

Offline Polie

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Re: Downgrade M4
« Reply #16 on: June 11, 2009, 12:56:27 AM »
Quote from: "stealthmaster14"
Quote from: "Sykinder"
Well I took it to gearbox and got it back on Saturday and now it's shooting just how I like but now the battery wires getting really hot after like 5 shots then after the 5 shots it doesn't shoot and when the wires cool down it starts to go again then stops working. Any ideas what's wrong with it? I'm taking it to gearbox tomorrow

Sounds like there is a lot of resistance in the wiring.  I'm not an electrical expert, but your wiring might be shorting out.  What kind of connectors do you have on your gun?  I highly suggest deans if you don't have them already.  This won't fix the issue, but could help a bit.  Definitely sounds like something is up with your wiring though.  (I'm guessing a short)


+1 on deans.

Tamiya plugs are such an old technology and are so obsolete its not even funny.  As for the plugs they are not really rated for amperage.  The GOOD Tatiya plugs are rated for a MAX of 15amps.  Normally airsoft guns dont pull 15 amps on a stock mechbox; add a spring, gears, and everything else they can and do pull more.  Now, with airsoft its not like its getting 15+amps for minute or even several seconds in a row.  R/C guys would melt them in a blink because of the constant load.  Deans I have seen online are rated upwards of 60 amps.  Now thats waaay over kill for us, but its worth it.  It is a cheap insurance, and they not only last longer they connect more securely.  Have the guys at Gearbox switch you to deans.  I think I saw some on the wall for sale there.  Oh and while your at it, take the stock charger I bet your still using and toss it away. Try to get yourself a decent smart charger.  It will not over charge your batteries.  

I know a lot of guys still run Tamiya plugs, and they will say its not needed.  But really its just common sense to use wire and plugs rated for the amps we are potentially seeing.  Tamiya where never made or intended to be used like we use them with constant connecting and disconnecting, they where made to be connected and disconnected only a few times.  They where made more for constant load between boards or motors that where not soldered together. Oh and if you go ahead and do deans, thats just one more step closer to running a lipo battery. :)  

Plug amperage info:

http://www.elektromodellflug.de/hochstr ... tecker.htm
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Guest »
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Offline stealthmaster14

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Re: Downgrade M4
« Reply #17 on: June 11, 2009, 11:47:56 AM »
Agreed.  Deans are totally worth it, especially with a G36 series weapon. (due to the multiple connections)  In a G36, the battery connects to a small tamiya, then the fuse, then another tamiya which connects to the GB.  My connectors were getting SUPER hot and the JG motor could barely pull my SP110.  (like 10 rps at best lol)  I added deans and my ROF shot up like 4 rps.  (no joke, it's MUCH faster)  Trigger response and battery life are also much better.  If I bypased the fuse (while the tamiyas were still on) by connecting directly to the GB, avoiding the other tamiyas, it would shoot with about a 1-2 rps increase (when the battery is low)  If I plugged it in normally, the gun wouldn't shoot. (battery had the same charge lol) That's how much resistance there was.  

Hobbyking.com has deans for $10 shipped for 10 pairs.  They are better than normal deans because they are made of nylon fiber so they won't melt as easy while you are soldering them on.  They also have ridges on them so you get a better grip on the plugs. They are extremely hard to connect at first, so what I do is get some pliers and I just squeeze the contacts (? connector part thingy) with pliers a few times.  It breaks them in.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Guest »

Offline Sykinder

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Re: Downgrade M4
« Reply #18 on: June 14, 2009, 07:50:43 PM »
Well got it back from gearbox on Friday and played the sat RU game and the motor came loose so I tightneded it back up it seems to work in bursts but on full auto something draws too much power from the battery I know it's not the motor drawing power b/c I switched motors with my mp5 and did the same thing. Any guess's on what's wrong with it?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Guest »

Offline Paul D Wog

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Re: Downgrade M4
« Reply #19 on: June 14, 2009, 08:42:47 PM »
Possibly motor too tight?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Guest »
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Offline Sykinder

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Re: Downgrade M4
« Reply #20 on: June 14, 2009, 11:18:05 PM »
Well just I loosened the motor and it did the same thing gonna take it to gearbox for the 3rd and hopefully last time.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Guest »