So here is the setup I was planning on running
*Guarder SP150 spring
*Bravo Aluminum cylinder head http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6244
*Bravo Aluminum piston head http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6240
*Modify nozzle http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=2272
*Systema energy super torque up ratio gears http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6127
*Since I was advized against an aluminum pistion please recommend one
*I was also thinking of a bore up kit rather than buying everything seperate
*I have a CA reinfroced gearbox already, only problem is this is a 6mm gearbox with bushings and no bearings. Is it even worth doing all these upgrades if all I have is a 6mm gearbox?
-Guarder SP150 will put you above 500 FPS in the 550 FPS range if compression is done correctly. I'm going to advise against this high on any "store bought" V2 gearbox, especially CA's as it will fail. The only ways I know of to fix this issue is Sorbothane spacer on the piston head OR on the cylinder head, and rounding the cylinder window's corners which I believe CA already does. I'll talk more on Sorbo later
-The Bravo Aluminum Cylinder head is interesting, but the concept is not a good one. If the holes that are cut for the cylinder head to sit in when put in the gearbox (the two holes on the side) are not more of cylinders then round holes then the bumper on the front may never get to be used. It also does not necessarily reduce issues with cracking the front of the gearbox. If there are cheaper alternatives then use that instead.
-This is fine, but keep in mind that aluminum piston and piston heads do increase stress on the front of the gearbox, a V2 gearbox will fail without the Sorbo, and the sorbo helps reduce some of those stresses, but it's not a guarentee.
-Modify Nozzle works fine for me
-Systema Energy gears make me cringe, your money, I dont recommend Systema gears unless money is soo tight you cant afford other gearsets. Prometheus gears, RiotSC's gears and Guarder gears are all I recommend. If you have to buy Systema gears, go for the regular full on Torque gears, I worry that the Energy set may not be up to the task of pulling the SP150 spring
-Prometheus Hard Piston or the Azimuth Piston. When used in conjunction with sorbo, remove second tooth and possibly part of the third.
-Bore up kit would be a waste of money
-6mm bushings would be muuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuch better than 6mm bearings. These are fine. Solid bushings give you peace of mind as it's very difficult to break bushings, HOWEVER I would replace the CA 6mm bushings. I've had several stock CA's come back with bushings that have been ovaled out...
-Sorbothane. You need to get some of this stuff. Tirador on Airsoft Mechanics (Creater of Airsoft Research Syndicate) or go to the ARS webpage and buy some. I advise against buying his cylinder heads with the sorbo installed as I hear bad reports of them not sealing up to well, but purchasing his self make kits is a good idea. You glue (Super glue, like GOOD super glue) the blue down to either the Cylinder head (post removal of the regular rubber buffer) and then glue the black one on top of it, cut a hole in it first yadi yadi yah, or you can glue it to the piston head, blue then black (So the black is always on the top relative to the force of impact). What sorbo does is when the spring hits home it compresses and transfers the energy sideways so the majority of the impact stress is reduced It also serves the dual purposes of adjusting the AoE (discussed on the previous page) and quieteting the impact of the piston hitting the cylinder. The kits are relativly cheap, this is a MUST.
I also recommend a good motor, the CA stock motor is not, and I definetly recommend a MOSFET trigger system. Either get one of the full on computer ones permanetly locked in semi auto (as you wont be able to have full auto) or get an Active braking MOSFET and modify the fire selector. Either way, a MOSFETs work by redirecting the battery's power straight to the motor. When you pull the trigger, a small voltage crosses the MOSFET and returns onto the "gate" pin. When the MOSFET gets that voltage it dumps the rest of the voltage straight to the motor. This reduces trigger contact wear drastically. When you get an Active Braking MOSFET they add a second MOSFET to the system that detects when the trigger contacts have been taken off, and then it basically "shorts" the motor causing it to stop VERY QUICKLY. Usually it stops it right before it contacts the piston again. This is essential for FPS consistency which is cruicial for accurate fire.
