Author Topic: what would you recomend?  (Read 1509 times)

Offline extremist

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what would you recomend?
« on: September 12, 2007, 06:52:16 AM »
what would you guys think of for a m14?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by extremist »
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Offline Ares

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« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2007, 09:55:08 AM »
neither. Do not upgrade your weapon. You're asking for trouble.

if you're going to ruin an AEG, do it to a crappy clone.

As far as bb's go. Always always always use .25's. (for your application)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Ares »

Offline Up State

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« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2007, 12:36:58 PM »
you best be adding reinforced shell and replacing gears, guide, piston and motor or its gonna go straight to hell.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Up State »
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Offline noVtecHERE

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« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2007, 12:48:34 PM »
hhaahhaha... man i agree with everyone else, i ran my ECHO 1 m14 with 25`s and it chronoed @ 295 consistently, just through in a HIGH MAH 8.4v and a tighbore and leave it, i rarely run .20`s, they r too light but sometimes useful to cheat and get kills...
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by noVtecHERE »
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Offline Morgann0

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« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2007, 02:25:46 PM »
I stuck a 120 in my CA36C and it gave me some serious trouble for awhile.  It seems to work ok with a 110 though.  Don't bother
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Morgann0 »
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Offline Ares

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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2007, 03:07:49 PM »
i agree partly with noVtech. Some of the basics are safe if done by someone with good experience. A TBB is the only thing i would recommend, as it increases performance without screwing with the internals.

An 8.4V battery with a high output rate (MAH does not affect battery performance, ONLY longevity per charge cycle) Gonzobatteries@yahoo.com can get you the best battery on the market.

Everything else can be swapped ONLY after the rare occasion where something breaks. Should a piston break, replace it with a deep fire polycarb. Should a gear break, replace it with a stronger gear set.

Those kinds of upgrades don't harm the weapon like a stronger spring does. The way i see it is simple.... Classic Army (like many other companies) designed a system to work effectively and reliably. DO NOT screw that up by adding things that drastically change the performance of the internals.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2007, 03:20:19 PM by Ares »

Offline extremist

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« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2007, 03:16:48 PM »
even if it is made by classic army?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by extremist »
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Offline Ares

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« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2007, 03:19:35 PM »
especially by classic army. Why mess up the system that a team of people designed to make CA one of biggest names in Airsoft?

take my CA m15 series. I replaced the piston, and gear set. but ONLY because they needed to be replaced. had by gun not broken (due to my improper battery choice) i would have never opened the gearbox.

I'll be getting a CA M14 Match myself in a few days. I'll review its performance and tell you what i recommend, deal?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Ares »

Offline extremist

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« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2007, 04:17:20 PM »
sure
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by extremist »
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Offline Pryde

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« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2007, 04:52:26 PM »
I'd do an m110 with .20....but then again I'd never use a CA without opening it to clean the grease out of it to re-grease and re-shim it.  As to the 110 over 120, it'll give you more life without the need to get a higher output battery.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Pryde »
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Offline Ares

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« Reply #10 on: September 12, 2007, 05:33:38 PM »
Quote from: "Pryde"
I'd do an m110 with .20....but then again I'd never use a CA without opening it to clean the grease out of it to re-grease and re-shim it.  As to the 110 over 120, it'll give you more life without the need to get a higher output battery.


such things seem unnecessary to me. I re lubed my M15 when i finally did have to open the box, but until its absolutely necessary, i wont ever crack a gearbox of my own.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Ares »

Offline morugatu

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« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2007, 08:51:48 PM »
Quote from: "Ares"
i agree partly with noVtech. Some of the basics are safe if done by someone with good experience. A TBB is the only thing i would recommend, as it increases performance without screwing with the internals.

An 8.4V battery with a high output rate (MAH does not affect battery performance, ONLY longevity per charge cycle) Gonzobatteries@yahoo.com can get you the best battery on the market.

Everything else can be swapped ONLY after the rare occasion where something breaks. Should a piston break, replace it with a deep fire polycarb. Should a gear break, replace it with a stronger gear set.

Those kinds of upgrades don't harm the weapon like a stronger spring does. The way i see it is simple.... Classic Army (like many other companies) designed a system to work effectively and reliably. DO NOT screw that up by adding things that drastically change the performance of the internals.


And that basically is a lesson that took me one year, over $150 and much damage to my M15 to learn. :roll:

Seriously though.  I strongly believe if everyone follow that rule of thumb, we'd have a helluva lot less people ruining their replicas.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by morugatu »
Name: Alex
Replicas: HFC USR 11 (PDI 240 setup), ICS L85A2 (sp120 setup), ICS Colt M4 (390fps), KJW 1911 Tactical, CA M14 (M120), and CYMA Mp5k (M120)

Offline Vince

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« Reply #12 on: September 12, 2007, 09:01:31 PM »
All of my AEGs are upgraded and they run flawlessly.

I would argue the upgrades I perform enhance and augment the longevity and function of my AEGs.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Vince »


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Offline Whiskey11

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« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2007, 09:32:53 PM »
Vince is Right, Most companies including tm (although less tm then others) have a hard time getting shimming right.  Usually they overshim to the point where the gun has a hard time pulling an M120 w/out some serious work.  

As a note for the CA M14.  I'm running an M120 set up in mine with bearing spring guide, Systema M120 and a Systema Magnum Motor, as far as my recomendations, They are:

Reshim
Regrease
and use the CA pinion gear if you change motors.

I run a 3500 mah 8.4v NiMh and my god its got an awesome trigger response (there is a trigger response?)  Lets give an example.  Its very hard for me to do a fast double tap w/out the gun locking up and blowing a fuse.  I cant tell if this is because of the way the motor is or my own stupidity.  Granted, an easy fix but the Magnum has enough torque that if you double tap in the general sense it WILL catch the piston mid cycle and lock the gun up.  The only solution is modifying the gun to shoot 600 fps on semi only, but I feel that might be accessive for Airsoft Arizona games (I'm a trustworty person, you wont see me shooting anyone up close :P) and I will refrain untill at least I feel comfortable with that set up.  Right now, 400 fps with no trigger lag, is awesome.

I'm in love with this M14,  I liked my TM alot but the CA just has won my heart, its everything I wanted out of my TM and more, even if it is an inferior copy of an inferior design.

Its also got standard CA internals, so I would imagine you can just drop an M120 spring and a bearing spring guide in there and you'd be set at 400 fps.  Maybe a reshim and regrease too. ;)  The shimming was very tight on mine, so tight it couldnt pull an M120 spring with the stock motor (hence the Magnum) by the time I got the magnum I had already stripped down the gearbox and done what i'm not beginning to do with every stock gun purchase, tear it down, reshim it and regrease it.  

Vince is right though, if upgrades are done right they actually INCREASE the life of a gun as apposed to decrease it.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Whiskey11 »

Offline Pryde

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« Reply #14 on: September 12, 2007, 10:09:08 PM »
Quote from: "Ares"
Quote from: "Pryde"
I'd do an m110 with .20....but then again I'd never use a CA without opening it to clean the grease out of it to re-grease and re-shim it.  As to the 110 over 120, it'll give you more life without the need to get a higher output battery.

such things seem unnecessary to me. I re lubed my M15 when i finally did have to open the box, but until its absolutely necessary, i wont ever crack a gearbox of my own.


I've cracked open over 200 gearboxes, usually I wont trust any gun until I've opened it and put it back together right....exception being on new TMs
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by Pryde »
Location:Tucson, AZ